Shavua Tov

Whoa. So much has happened in the past week.

I've heard that the beginning is a good place to start, so here's the beginning:

Last Tuesday, I went on a tiyul with two friends to the Jerusalem Archaeology Park. Beginning in the late 1800s, I believe, archaeologists began digging up the area around Har HaBayit and the Kotel. After 1967, Israeli archaeologists put great efforts into uncovering the layers of history surrounding Har HaBayit. As a result of archaeologists' efforts over the past hundred years or so, you can now visit Bayit Sheini-era mikvaot, storefronts, and ruins, all located along the Western Wall (just a bit south of the Kotel Plaza). A couple of hundred feet away, on the southern side of Har HaBayit, you can walk through a Byzantine-era home (the mosaic floors are in perfect condition) and explore the former grounds of an Ummayad palace. Robinson's Arch and Chulda's gate, two of the former entrances to the Beit HaMikdash are must-sees as well. (I realize that I sound like a tour guide.) Near the end of our time in the park, I witnessed a pretty eery sight. I noticed dogs running through the excavations on the southern side of Har HaBayit; the image reminded me so much of the story of Rabbi Akiva and the foxes roaming Har HaBayit.

Rosh Hashana was an intense experience. I spent the chag in Beitar. Shachris began at 6:30 A.M. and ended at around 2:00 P.M. At the Yom Tov and Shabbos seudot, my hosts only discussed divrei Torah. It was a different sort of Yom Tov for me, which I think is a good thing since the Aseret Yimei Teshuva are a time to try to be a better person. My Rosh Hashana's atmosphere was definitely conducive to achieving that goal.

Today, Tzom Gedalya. After an abbreviated schedule of classes, a couple of friends and I visited Yad VaShem. (You know the quote in Maus, where Art Spiegelman quotes someone famous who said that putting an idea to words detracts from the idea, but Art comments that the person bothered to say that very idea?) Regardless of whether I paraphrased that idea correctly at all or not and regardless of whether it was intelligible, I'm trying to say that Yad VaShem goes beyond description. Description wouldn't do the place justice. All I can say is that three hours is not enough time to properly visit the museum, so I hope to go back sometime soon.

And now. I'm sitting outside, under some palm trees and across from a bed of rose bushes, typing. That's right. We've got Wifi.

Philadelphia Cream Cheese

Thank G-d, I'm having an all-around great time in Israel.

I'm even adapting well to the paucity of Diet Dr. Pepper in this country; I've taken up drinking Diet Coke by the liter instead. It's not the same, but it will suffice.

The one thing, however, that I've been trying to find here that I just can't seem to locate is American-style cream cheese. You know, the normal stuff you put on a lightly toasted whole wheat poppy seed bagel. Yeah, that stuff. Strangely, this country sells many, many varieties of cheese, but not regular, old-fashioned cream cheese. Israeli cheese even comes with the exact percentage of fat contained within printed on the package. Talk about full disclosure. But for an industry that has shomen-content down to the percentage, the Israeli dairy industry does not seem to produce cream cheese. So I was pleasantly surprised today when I opened up the fridge and found a package of Philadelphia cream cheese, tied in silver ribbon, laying on my shelf.

I have really sweet dira-mates. Thanks guys.

I Think I'm Falling in Love with Israel

Okay, so I've been here in Yerushalayim for just about a week and three hours now, and it's been quite an experience.

When I first arrived in Yerushalayim (after a rather lengthy delay in JFK), I had one of those simple yet profound realizations. I so badly wanted to visit the Kotel--merely a remnant in the place where a magnificent Beit HaMikdash should be--and I thought to myself, How awesome would it be to take a sheirut from Ben Gurion to the Beit HaMikdash. Halevai.

I forgot, or perhaps I never realized, how beautiful the city of Yerushalayim is. The hills, the valleys, the panoramic views, the brilliant sunshine--and that's just Bayit Vegan. I've got a great davening spot under a lime tree in a small courtyard outside my dira. Talk about a makom kavuah.

Thank G-d, the learning is great. Lots of Tanach, a good bit of Halacha, and a sprinkle of some Machshava. Maybe even a drop of Torah Sheh'bi'al Peh.

I love the street signs proclaiming the names of Rishonim. I love struggling with Ivrit and Israeli money. I love the cashiers who play Jewish geography ("Where are you from?" "Random Midwest city." "Oh, I have a friend there." "Yeah, it's a great place."). I love the fact that sketchy looking men walk around with giant gold Magen Davids, instead of crosses, around their necks.

I think I'm fallig in love with Israel.